Tucked into a nondescript strip of Berkshire Lane just east of Douglas Avenue, Pizzeria Carino unpretentiously serves unpretentious Roman-style pizza. Chef/owner Eugene Plyako, a former technology sales executive, inspired by trips to Rome, became obsessed with the two specific styles of pizza served there: one, pizza al taglio, which has a slightly thick, almost focaccia-like crust cut into squares often eaten on-the-go and, the other, pizza tonda, a flat, round, crispy crust pizza. Pizzeria Carino serves both styles as well as sandwiches, salads, sides, and an excellent house-made tiramisu.
I popped into the pizzeria one day and introduced myself to Eugene after a foodie friend raved about his food. Though Pizzeria Carino is three doors down from my nail salon, and has been open for more than a year, I’d never seen it. I’ve wasted so much time, friends.
He was prepping dough and had a sprinkle of flour on his face, a whimsical, unserious look for a serious craftsman. I asked for his recommendation for my first-ever pizza there and, without hesitation, he declared the margherita the only first pie to order. “It’s the purest, simplest.”
He steered me right.
The round, crispy 10” crust held a simple sauce of crushed tomatoes and premium mozzarella and carefully arranged basil leaves. It was glorious. Eugene gave me a sample of the Roman Square in margherita, and it was even better. The slightly chewy, fluffy crust was delicious. Roman pizza uses fermented (sour) dough which gives it a tiny tang that compliments tomatoes and other pie toppings gorgeously, especially the Brian, named for Chef Brian Luscher (of The Grape and 33 Restaurant Group) using Luscher’s mild Italian sausage, thyme roasted cremini mushrooms, scallions, and parsley.
Despite its pizzeria designation, Carina doesn’t placate non pizza eaters (is there such a thing?) by including just any ol’ sandwiches and starters. For example, The Monti sandwich is composed of shaved mortadella, lemony ricotta, pistachio pesto, and Parmigiano. The Roadrunner is a take on Anthony Bourdain’s “Favorite Sandwich.” Eugene uses pan seared mortadella, melted provolone, Calabrian chili garlic, house-made Carina sauce, arugula and sweet peppers.
End your meal with tiramisu, please. The creamy, perfectly balanced dessert is made by Oksana, a Ukrainian refugee who learned to make it by working at a European bakery before the war. Eugene, also originally from Ukraine, hires war refugees to work in his restaurant. Currently on staff are three Ukrainian refugees who prep and cook.
Pizzeria Carina, which means “cute pizzeria” in Italian, is a tiny space with limited kitchen equipment. Despite that, he cranks out great food in a very low-key environment which has no liquor license so you can BYOB or buy sodas and water there.
This is a spot I encourage you to patronize for lunch and dinner, dine in or take out. Eugene praises his Berkshire Lane neighbors, including Southpaw’s Café, and the many Preston Center employees who pop in for lunch or dinner for their support of him and his restaurant.
“I cannot praise this neighborhood enough,” he said. “People here have embraced this restaurant.”
Let’s continue to embrace this little “Mom and Pop” restaurant. They are a dying breed, and it would be a shame to lose it.
Pizzeria Carina
6005 Berkshire Lane
Dallas, 75225
Carina.pizza
@carina.pizza
