Some of my earliest food memories are of my father making gumbo in a big, black cast-iron Dutch oven with me observing unsafely from a chair while he patiently stirred the roux until it turned the shade of a dice-shaped Kraft caramel. The smell and sound of the “Holy Trinity” of onions, celery, and green bell peppers hitting the blistering roux is engrained in my sensorial memory. Even as I write, I experience it.
My kids mimicked my culinary curiosity and would watch me transform simple oil and flour into a precious gumbo base, albeit from a much safer perch. Today, as grown adults, they take pride in their ability to make very respectable gumbos. I’m afraid my son, who is the proud papa of a Boykin Spaniel named Roux, might have even surpassed me in skill, as he first fries the chicken then uses the flavorful oil to make his roux.
As an empty nester, making a big pot of gumbo is less rewarding as it’s less communal. I still make the family favorite turkey and sausage gumbo the Friday after Thanksgiving, but if I want to satisfy my craving for it more than once a year, I must go out. Fortunately, there are some great options around town.
I’ll go on the record right now as saying my favorite restaurant gumbo in Dallas is from Rex’s Seafood. The roux isn’t as dark and bitter as some versions, and since that’s what I grew up eating, that’s my preference. To each their own, as they say.
Whether you’re going to celebrate Mardi Gras, or you just want to enjoy a hot bowl of gumbo on a cold day, here are some area restaurants that serve gumbo.
Flying Fish – Preston Center
Seafood Gumbo
Half Shells – Snider Plaza
Seafood Gumbo with chicken and sausage
The Porch – Knox-Henderson
Chef Randy’s Gumbo with Andouille, chicken, shrimp (new menu item)
Rex’s Seafood – Northwest Highway at Hillcrest
Seafood Gumbo
Roots Southern Table – Farmer’s Branch
“My Mother’s Gumbo” with chicken, sausage, shrimp, and blue crab
S&D Oyster Co. – Uptown
Seafood Gumbo
Shuck & Jive – Greenville Ave. at Lover’s Lane
Chicken and Andouille Gumbo and Seafood Gumbo
TJ’s Seafood – Preston Forest Shopping Center
Seafood with Andouille
Retail offerings include Evan’s Meat Market‘s frozen chicken and sausage gumbo made with Evan’s own house made Andouille sausage and Central Market’s seafood gumbo, which is occasionally offered in the hot soup bar and prepared refrigerated foods section.
I still like my dad’s gumbo best, and though it’s been four years since he passed away, I haven’t tasted anything better since.
