“They say the neon lights are bright on Broadway
They say there’s always magic in the air”
The late, great George Benson sung those words about New York’s Broadway, but he could have just as well been singing about Nashville’s Broadway, the near one-mile stretch of neon-haloed honky tonks and tourist traps. Broadway has hosted such establishments since the 1930s when Jimmie Rodgers, “the father of country music,” started performing in bars off the banks of the Cumberland River.
Today’s Broadway is home to Jelly Roll’s Goodnight Nashville, a four-story bar, and other big-name venues. That’s not a bad thing; it’s just not my thing.
Which is why I think travelers should focus on Nashville off Broadway.
That’s not to say that you shouldn’t dip into Tootsies or The Stage while you’re there, but Nashville has so much more to offer than bachelorette parties, “woo girls,” rhinestoned denim, and big hats.
Sites to See
Let’s talk museums. Don’t scroll by – come on, stay with me. Nashville has considerable history that includes country music, but also prehistoric and civil war history. Its first inhabitants are from the Paleoindian period, 13,000 years ago, long before rhinestones were invented but possibly when feathers made their fashion debut. The Tennessee State Museum, which is free, contains multifaceted exhibits that take visitors on an interactive journey from pre-history to modern day.
The Frist Art Museum is housed in a magnificent 1930s’ era post office and contains a permanent collection and traveling exhibits worth seeing.
Perhaps the best-known museum in Music City is the Country Music Hall of Fame, where you will see everything from one of Elvis Presley’s Cadillacs to Taylor Swift’s sparkling guitar. The museum’s collection includes costumes, instruments, cars, handwritten lyrics and even a recording studio and is worth every penny of the adult entry price of $31.
Don’t miss out on other music-related museums either. The Musicians Hall of Fame & Museum takes a closer look at songwriting, sound engineering, mixing, and all the less glamourous but vital requirements to making a record. There are plenty of interactive exhibits which proved through my own effort, that beyond a doubt, even with significant technological intervention, I cannot carry a tune.
Sounds to Hear
Since you’re in Music City, you’re going to hear music everywhere, and since this story is called Nashville Off Broadway, I’ll guide you to some off-Broadway venues.
The Ryman Auditorium is the 134-year old former home of The Grand Ole Opry, among other things. The oak church pew seating is original, and the stained-glass windows are charmingly nostalgic. If you can’t make a concert here, at least tour the Ryman and behold the beauty of architectural preservation.
The Schermerhorn is home to the Grammy award-winning Nashville Symphony, which performs a variety of genres, from Beethoven to the Beatles and, even Dolly Parton’s Songs in Symphony.
The most notable and historic musical epicenter of Nashville is, of course, The Grand Ole Opry. I’ve traveled to Nasvhille a dozen times in the last 10 years and not once did it occur to me to attend the Grand Ole Opry. Though I always appreciated the history of it and its contributions to country music, I envisioned it as more Hee Haw than highbrow. It’s neither. It’s country music’s home, a concert venue featuring a revolving list of seriously talented musical artists. I enjoyed the Grand Ole Opry quite a bit and highly recommend it. Spring for the back-stage tour. Though it’s a 13-mile drive from downtown Nashville, it’s an easy Uber or Lyft ride.
For less formality in taking in music, there are countless venues within hotels, such as the newly updated Hutton Hotel, restaurants and bars, and even the Big Machine Brewery and Distillery.
Things to Buy
Shopping in Nashville isn’t the main event but there are some real treasures, especially in the 12 South neighborhood. Imogine+Willie is an upscale blue jean atelier that sells premium denim, hand cut and handsewn in America, and other apparel and accessories. Across the street is White’s Mercantile, a gorgeous upscale general store lovingly curated by owner Holly Williams, daughter of Hank Williams, Jr. Down the road a spot, don’t miss Ranger Station, a fragrance house that sells house-made fragrances and candles.
For book nerds, Parnassus books in Green Hills is a must-visit. Owned and operated by author Ann Patchett who is often seen in the store, it’s an indy bookstore lover’s dream.
Hatch Show Print is another must-visit while you’re nearby at the Country Music Hall of Fame. The letterpress print shop has been operating since 1879 and is known for its iconic letterpress concert posters.
Food to Eat
Nashville has plenty of great food destinations throughout town. The Gulch has many solid options including The Mockingbird, where we first met our future daughter-in-law, Adele’s, where the bridal luncheon lunch was hosted, 404 Kitchen, where the rehearsal dinner was held, and Gumbo Bros, where we alleviated our hangovers. Craig’s, the famous LA-based steakhouse, has an outpost in The Gulch and serves excellent steaks, pizza, and pasta.
Other favorites of mine are Etch and its sister restaurant, Etc. by legendary chef Deb Paquette. Downtown’s Etch is a local staple serving elevated southern-influenced global cuisine. Etc. is in Green Hills (grab lunch there after your Parnassus visit) with a similarly impressive menu.
Frothy Monkey is an all-day café with several locations. The 12 South is a real seen-and-be-seen setting so look cute and order the biscuit board when you’re there.
For barbecue, Martin’s and Edley’s are outstanding, pork-centric smokehouses.
Germantown also has some great spots. The Cupcake Collection is everyone’s favorite sweet spot. Rolf & Daughter’s and Henrietta Red have anchored the Germantown dining scene for more than a decade, before Germantown became the hot neighborhood is today.
Sports to Watch
Nashville is secretly a legit sports town amid all the songbirds and live music. The NHL’s Predators play downtown in Bridgestone Arena. Tennessee Titans currently play in the 27-year-old Nissan Stadium but will move in time for the 2027 season to the new Nissan Stadium just steps away.
You don’t have to be a baseball fan to enjoy a Nashville Sounds game. The Triple A affiliate of the Milwaukee Brewers, the Sounds play in the heart of Germantown in a stadium that’s basically a playground for kids and adults and boasts a huge guitar-shaped scoreboard.
Places to Sleep
Nashville is still considered an up-and-coming American tourist destinations, ranking 22nd in visitor data stats but the hospitality options there are ready for it.
The Hermitage Hotel embodies Nashville hospitality and is one of the few independently owned luxury hotels here. Big chains such as Hilton, Hyatt, and Marriott each have properties here under their respective sub brand categories. Hilton’s Motto Hotel is on the more affordable end, while Hyatt’s Thompson Nashville and Dream Hotel are a little pricier. There are abundant options for every energy and budget level.
The Dallas to Nashville connection is strong, thanks in part to generations of Texans who have attended Vanderbilt or Belmont. For those readers, it’s likely the only thing you’ve learned from this story is that I cannot sing. For others who have been to Nashville or are planning a visit, consider doing Nashville off Broadway, like a local. No need to bring your cowboy boots, big hat, sparkles, and fringe; you mostly only see that on Broadway.
